Freshly baked bread brushed with bone marrow and buttermilk
Normally looking for cheap eats in the new cities we explore, we occasionally have to take exception. With Jessica’s birthday weekend away to Copenhagen, we did without regret when we visited Snaregade’s Marv & Ben, who lead the way with the finest Nordic cuisine in the city.
Everything is prepared from scratch here with a curious combination of ingredients that cannot be found elsewhere. Following the traditional ‘small plate’ culture that we first experienced in Oslo’s Nord & Natt last month, we chose from Marv & Ben’s ‘Four Favourites’ recommendation, which took us on a sophisticated journey of exquisite flavours.
However beforehand, we were treated to some snacks… if that’s what you want to call it. With everything from a hot chicken and garlic soup to warm us from the sub-zero temperatures outside to small bites of deer meat and mushroom, we prepared ourselves for a special evening ahead.
With the best bread we’ve ever had with the smoothest of buttermilk, and a glass of their beautiful champagne, we toasted Jessica’s birthday and before long, our first starter course arrived.
Codfish, blue mussel & fermented asparagus
Thanks to our trip to Lisbon in January and exposure to the Portuguese’s massive appetite for cod fish, we have become massive fans of it and are looking to incorporate more fish into our home cooking. We were delighted to find it on the tasting menu here, and learnt that Portugal actually imports the freshest kinds of cod from Scandinavia. There was a heightened fish flavour from the blue mussel and kicks of garlic from the fermented asparagus which made all in all for huge punches of flavour and a melt-in-the-mouth start to proceedings.
On with the fish theme, the floral verbena tones in our second appetiser of squid and leek was equally as delicious.
Squid, leek & verbena
It was a tough choice, but the main course of grilled pork belly, grilled beetroot and fermented raspberry was our favourite of the evening. The unbelievably tender meat, delicious sauce and the massive complimenting flavours were having a party in our mouths. We’d go back to that party every night if we could.
Grilled pork, beetroot & raspberry
With the final of the ‘Four Favourite’s finishing our time here with an incredible dessert, we were full but left wanting so much more. As with Nord & Natt, the small plates will deceive you into thinking it won’t be enough, but it is never the case.
How could we resist this amazing doughnut-like caramelised apple? The raw artichoke and artichoke chips gave crispy and soft textures with the lemon and thyme cream. It worked fantastically well and it was the best end to a journey through Copenhagen’s dining culture, at the best place to have it.
Caramelised apple, Jerusalem artichoke & lemon thyme
At 400 DKK (just under £50) per person for the ‘Four Favourite’s,’ it was a splurge which was more than worth it. Each plate wasn’t just full of food, but thought, care and character. No wonder Marv & Ben have found themselves in the Michelin Guide for six consecutive years and cemented itself as the best Nordic restaurant in Copenhagen.
Customer service: ★★★★★
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